24 Hours in Naples
Only one day in Naples and looking for the perfect walking itinerary? I got you covered!
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When my husband and I were in Italy last Christmas, he was just elated to bring me to Naples. “Naples is the heartbeat of Italy. Everything America knows and loves about Italy comes from here” — he boasted. At the time I thought this pitch was a bit extreme, but the more time I spend in this vibrant, gritty, bustling city… I feel he has a point. Because Naples can be a bit intimidating, it doesn’t always get the love it deserves, but I am going to share my must hit spots for a perfect 24 hours in Naples, Italy.
Arriving in Naples…
We took the train from Milan to Naples and arrived in the late morning. Marco hailed us a cab and we made our way to Atelier Ines in the heart of the most authentic district of Naples: Rione Sanità. Atelier Ines is an art gallery, a showroom and a jewelry boutique with six bespoke rooms and suites. Each one is completely different and decorated with pieces crafted by Annibale and Vincenzo Oste.
After dropping off our bags we headed straight to Concettina ai Tre Santi for some of the most incredible pizza in all of Italy. I ordered the “costiera.” sungold tomatoes, fior di latte cheese, extra virgin oil, a little bit of pepper topped with dried oregano and Amalfi lemon zest. I would go back here every time if I could. I also hear they have an amazing tasting menu that I would have been down to try had we gone for dinner.
Explore Rione Sanità
After lunch, we explored Rione Sanità. As you step on to the street you are surrounded by the city’s beautiful churches, palaces and monuments but against a lively backdrop of italian culture. In addition to the architecture and murals, the area is also famous for underground catacombs and the church of San Vincenzo.
Make your way to Centro Storico
I have been told time and time again that you can’t miss the Cristo Velato to Cappella Sansevero, but every time I have gone tickets were sold out. Don’t be like me. Plan ahead. Stop in one of the “chiosco” in the street for a refreshing limone cosce aperte (literally “lemon juice with open thighs”) and be sure to stop in Scaturchio for a sfogliatelle. Take a stroll down San Gregorio Armeno — if you are an ornament collector like myself, be sure to pick up something special here, but note that the street during the holidays is nothing short of a zoo. We came during Christmas last year and could barely walk, but when we returned this past september it couldn’t have been more chill.
Next up head to Quartieri Spagnoli and have fun walking through the incredible little streets that go to the Maradona’s murals.
Head towards the water for a healthy dose of history…
Make your way to the Castel dell’Ovo for breathtaking views of the bay, stopping for a quick photo in Galleria Umberto on the way,
As you make your way to the water stop by Palazzo Reale di Napoli where it is not uncommon to find tourists attempting a curious experiment: crossing the square… blindfolded! According to legend, Queen Margherita granted monthly pardons to certain prisoners, but only if they managed to pass a test: crossing the square blindfolded and passing between the two equestrian statues.
Aperitivos by the sea…
Stroll the Lungomare as the sun gets lower in the sky, and enjoy aperitivo along the water. Or at least that’s what we were planning on doing…as I was crossing the street I was hit by a vespa, and our aperitivo hour was nixed. I was fine, but both the driver and myself were thrown to the ground in the middle of oncoming traffic, and Marco was a nervous wreck for the rest of the day. Now is a good time to tell you…unless you are familiar with driving in Italy, don’t drive in Naples. The rules of the road do not apply and the amount of reckless driving is truly not to be believed. After the accident we made our way back to Atelier Ines to clean up and calm down before dinner.
Dinner at Mimì alla Ferrovia
What many consider the Holy Grail of Neapolitan cooking, this unassuming gem of a restaurant has me dreaming of returning. I cannot recommend it enough. Everything we had was delicious, but I am still dreaming about the candele alla genovese.
Alright, there you have it…24 glorious hours in Naples. Now, it goes without saying that you should be popping in and out of various cafes for espresso, sfogliatelle, popella and a gazillion other tasty treats. Let me know in the comments if you have any specific questions and I would be more than happy to answer them.
Photos for this newsletter were created in collaboration with Marco Pannella. I am endlessly grateful to have a partner who can make the best moments stand still just long enough to capture them forever.
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